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Installation Guides   Technical Bulletins   Code Approvals   MSDS   Energy Efficiency    Technical FAQ's		Technical FAQ's   The questions listed are web inquiries from actual customers. They have been answered by MonierLifetile's technical department.   Search the FAQ:      Q: Do any of your products contribute to earning points towards the LEED rating?   A: We are currently working to get a number of our tiles certified by the Cool Roof Rating Council and Energy Star which will qualify for credits and the NAHB is also planning to incorporate the Above Sheathing Ventilation of a tile roof as an element of their new Green Building Standard.   Green Build - Roof Fact Sheet GreenBuild LEED Credits   Q: Does MonierLifetile meet energy efficient specs for federal and state of California improvements to residence?   A: Tile roofs in general do meet or exceed the goals of both federal and state energy initiatives but, at this time, have not garnered formal recognition since all of these initiatives have been focused exclusively of surface reflectivity as a measure of energy efficiency and MLT has not yet submitted tiles for the CRRC certification required for these programs.   The roof tile industry has been working with the Oak Ridge National Laboratory to establish the energy saving value of an installed tile roof and the data logged to date clearly shows that the airflow developed between the roof deck and the underside of the tile creates a far more effective heat gain barrier than does a reflective surface. Data to support this has been submitted to the California Energy Commission and we are hoping for formal recognition in the 2008 Energy Code / Title 24.   In the meantime, since current programs reward tiles with reflective surfaces, MLT has begun testing on a number of our tiles and will be submitting those results for certification with the Cool Roof Rating Council (CRRC). We are expecting that these certifications will be in place by October of 2007.   Q: Is it ever a necessity to change the underlayment of a tile roof? The tile has a long life time but what about the underlayment? I live in a condo complex and they are considering replacing the underlayment of about 18 years bur this obviously is a very expensive procedure. Is this typical in the desert?   A: The underlayment beneath the tile can, in fact require replacement in the event that it no longer serves the purpose that it was designed for. There can be any number of reasons for this premature failure, ranging from prolonged exposure prior to tile installation to poor workmanship.   The underlayment is intended as the back-up system for the tile and, as such, only comes into play when water finds its way beneath the tile. Since you are faced with this task of reworking the roof, I would suggest that you select a good quality underlayment but make sure that the tiles are installed in such a manner that water does not easily get underneath the tile.   You may also have your roofer contact us to make certain that he will be installing the roof in such a manner that will measure up to your expectations.   Q: What is the recommended roof truss spacing and the sheathing thickness for standard weight roof tile on a home to be built in northwest Florida?   A: Florida has very high live load requirements. In most cases a few extra pounds of roof covering makes no difference in the truss design.   Standard Florida residential truss spacing is 24 inches O.C. using engineered trusses. If you are concerned about the load capacity of your trusses we recommend an engineer's evaluation. These evaluations are not very expensive.   Q: I'm about to install the first tile roof Espana and read your install manual. The house will be built in Boise with a rather hot/dry summer and mild winters with almost no snow. Would you recommend the counterbatten installation system. What benefits would you expect? How do I have to deal with the increased gap at the eaves/rake-area?   A: Since the Boise area is indeed a more moderate climate region than other parts of Idaho, it is not essential that a counter-batten system be employed but it nonetheless can offer some advantages for the long-term performance of your roof system that you may still want to consider. In regards to the extra space created by the elevated batten system, our company has created special eave components that are designed specifically for these systems so the appearance and performance are not impacted.   Q: I am a designer specifying a new roof addition to match existing called out as "Lifetile" ICBO 2656P. This sounds similar to one of your tiles and I would like to a)obtain specifications (but I couldn't search online by ICBO #), b) verify if this product is still available and c) verify this is Class A rated.   A: The Lifetile ICBO 2656 is an evaluation report number that would encompass dozens, if not hundreds of different tiles that were covered by that report. Out current ICC report is ICC ESR 1647 and all of our current products are listed there but I'm afraid that report will not do you much good in finding a matching tile. Most roofing distributors who handle our product can help you find a match if you bring them a tile. While it's quite possible that the exact tile that was used on the original roof may not be in current production, normally, a reasonably close match can be found.   Another option is to send us some digital photos showing the overall appearance on the roof and a close-up picture of an individual tile - front and back. Sometimes we can give you an identification in that way and suggest a current product that will suit your needs. To answer your last question, all of our tiles are Class A fire rated.   Q: I am a roof inspector and roofing contractor. I have a client in Boca Raton who has a 10 year old "S" concrete tile that was mechanically fastened over a 30/90 underlayment on a 4/12 pitch. He thinks the hurricane wind may have loosened his tiles. Some of the butts can be lifted up 1" and some up to 2". What is acceptable tolerance? There are no leaks and only the ridge tiles came off. Does he need a new roof?   A: First of all, there is always some movement of the nose on a mechanically fastened system. This is desirable. It allows some movement when walked on and avoids stress on the tile and minimizes foot traffic breakage.   A 1-inch movement at the nose would not be a concern. A 2-inch movement is not good. That level of movement is considered failure in our static uplift tests. Having said that, it is one thing to have a large percentage of the roof with excessive movement as opposed to just a few tiles.   Of course, any decision to repair or replace a roof tile installation should be made by a certified roofing consultant that has been on the roof and inspected it. From what you've described, it does not seem that a reroof is necessary. Some repairs on a few obviously loose tiles is probably all that is required.   Q: Do you have a detail for the tile installation in Maui County or Honolulu? I understand they like a space under the tile for air circulation.   A: The concept of circulating air between the tile and the roof deck is not unique to Hawaii but Hawaii adopted the universal system of counter batten application many years ago due to the strong New Zealand influence when that market was developed. Our company is currently promoting an Energy Efficient Roof that features an elevated batten system and other components that provide enhanced ventilation and drainage beneath the tiles. See attached.   Q: Are there any tricks to make sure that a eyebrow dormer lays flat on a roof being tiled with s shaped Mediterranean tile?   A: Aside from making sure that the dormer is positioned in a level manner, the fit of these dormers depends largely on the type of apron flashing provided at the front edge. Lead or dead soft aluminum aprons are the most common but if rigid steel is used, then the void beneath the flashing must be filled with mortar or some other type of fitted closure material.   MonierLifetile also offers a new, flexible flashing material called Wakaflex that may also be used to weatherproof difficult transition or flashing requirements. Q: We were told when we bought our home in 2002 that if we removed more than one tile from our roof (for a solar tube), our warranty would be voided. We had one solar tube installed and would like to install another one, but would like to know if we install the 2nd one, will our warranty be voided?   A: The product warranty provided by MonierLifetile applies only to the actual roof tiles and would be unaffected by the installation of integrated components into the roof. The warranty that you are referring to is most likely the installation warranty provided by the builder or roofing contractor that relates to the installation and performance warranty which is totally independent from the MLT product warranty.   Q: The edge tiles on my roof are not well attached. They have two pre-punched holes in them, but the contractor nailed only on the side that contacts the wood. What size masonry bit should I use to clean out the other hole and drill into the field? Is there any other way to fix this problem?   A: The trim tile come with two nail holes along each side of the trim so that the same piece can be used at either end of the roof. As long as the trim is installed with two nails in the wood they are installed to code.   Q: Do you have any product approvals for espana tile installation on a sloped concrete deck?   A: There are no formal specifications for concrete deck installations, but they are being done on a job-by-job basis.   Option #1: Prime the concrete deck and hot mop a No. 30 base sheet. Hot mop a No. 90. Back nail the No. 90 with concrete fasteners (pre-drilled). Foam the tile.   Option #2: The same anchor sheet installation as Option #1 with an SBS modified cap sheet. Foam the tile.   Note: There is test data that would allow a self-adhered membrane directly to the concrete deck without an anchor sheet; Miami-Dade would require an engineer's approval on such a system.   Q: Contractor advises that chips along the edges of installed tile are routine. Do you have any guidance on what number of tile and size of chips you would consider acceptable in installation of your product?   A: Any slurry coated tile would have some chips at the nose. This is an aesthetic issue and as such is subjective. Small chips can be painted to match the base color of the tile.   From a functional perspective, any chip larger than 2 inches would compromise the water shedding capability of the product. Even this is not really an issue in Florida, because the tile is applied over a sealed underlayment that is designed to handle water runoff. Having said that, large pieces of missing chips can be unsightly and should be replaced.   Q: Is there a "cap" design for a mansard condition using the flat profile concrete roof tile?   A: The easiest way to cap a mansard application is with a metal cap unless the wall is narrow enough to be fully covered by one of our standard ridge tiles. Please see attached drawing.   Q: What would you recommend in lieu of copper flashings at roof in a marine exposure environment? Vinyl flashing, aluminum (I believe this corrodes against pressure treated lumber), GSM (pitting occurs), or other material? And for what conditions?   A: If your project is situated within 1500 feet of the shoreline, you should stick with copper or stainless steel for your exposed flashings. If you are further than that, you could probably use a Zinc-Alum or Galv-Alum material for your flashings and save quite a lot of money without sacrificing too much corrosion resistance.   Q: Please tell me how concerned I should be over pest control people breaking tiles when tenting the house? Also, how concerned should I be over tile surface appearing cloudy as concrete bleeds?   A: While the Madera product holds up quite well to occasional foot traffic, our experience has been that pest control companies who utilize the tenting method of termite control, typically pay very little attention to the protection of the roof and in fact ask you to sign a waiver releasing them form any responsibility for broken tiles. I would suggest that you look for a company that features one of the newer methods of cyrogenics or orange oil for your termite treatments.   Regarding your concerns about "concrete bleeds", I can only assume you are referring to the efflorescence that can sometimes occur with concrete products. While it is impossible to guarantee against efflorescence, we do apply a sealer to the surface of our tiles during the manufacturing process that is designed to limit and control this occurrence. In most cases, it never appears.   Q: We are considering using your elevated battens on a tile roof in Maryland. I was trying to get specification data as to materials used for batten and "rod resistant pad". This seems like a real labor saving idea as opposed to counter battens.   A: Attached is product info for elevated battens from p26 of our Southeast-Northeast catalog (which can also be accessed and downloaded from our website). This system provides efficient water runoff as well as enhanced thermal characteristics.   Q: The oxide that my builder placed on my new roof does not match the roof tile color. What can be done to correct this situation?   A: This can be one of two things:   Either the mortar work is going through the efflorescence phase of the curing cycle (white film on the surface), or the oxide is the wrong color.   If it is efflorescence it is temporary. You can determine the condition if you simply wet a section. This will temporarily remove the white film and reveal the actual color. Time will clear up efflorescence.   If it really is the wrong color, a 100% acrylic paint will provide a good match and is an enduring solution.   Q: What is your recommended minimum roof pitch in a hurricane area for your Atlantis Verona white 1ATWU8003 roof tile? Does this tile fall within the general description of a Bermuda flat tile?   A: The Atlantis profile replaced the Bermuda several years ago. The tiles are essentially the same size, the Atlantis being slightly thicker.   The minimum roof slope is 2:12. This would require a multi-ply underlayment and an adhesive fastening system; no penetrations.   Q: I was wondering about roof tiles being cut back at all valleys. Is there a manufacturer's requirement to do so?   A: Tiles may be cut to form either an open or closed valley. The only requirement is that, when flat tiles are cut to a closed valley, the roofer must use a ribbed valley or batten extenders. This requirement went into effect as of July 1, 2006.   Q: What are the disadvantages of Cedarlite vs. Madera? I know Cedarlite is lighter. Is it less durable? Less fire resistant?   A: Madera is a standard weight version of the popular Cedarlite tile that provides a stronger, less expensive solution that looks almost identical to the Cedarlite. Both tiles have similar fire resistance and long life expectancy but the Madera tiles will handle foot traffic, hail impact and sliding snow better. Where the roof structure is not adequate and cannot be reinforced to support standard weight tiles, Cedarlite is the preferred solution.   Q: I am contemplating installing your Cedarlite product on my home which currently has wood shake. Is this a project a handy homeowner can take on? I have built barns, roofed sheet metal barns and cabins, and done asphalt shingling. Some specific questions: How do you cut the tiles? Do you have to paint the cut edges if you don't want rake tiles? Is there a time limit from receipt of tile to installation (like Firefree tiles where they become too brittle to install)? I am installing on a 2" X 6" t&g roof deck and I don't want to use battens. What would be the best underlayment material - 2 X 30lbs TileGuard, or Triflex 30?   A: While the installation if a tile roof is not overly complex, it is best accomplished with a methodical approach that could easily be done by a handy homeowner. The most difficult part is the coordination of the project and the delivery and loading of the tiles. You should check with your local roofing supply house to see if they offer roof loading services. Beyond that, if you follow the installation instructions, it is not difficult to install the roof - aside from the physical part.   If you have not done so already, you should get a copy of the TRI Installation Manual for Moderate Climates. This book contains general guidelines for how to install a tile roof and it is available for download from our website. You should then have a copy of the Cedarlite installation instructions since they contain information more specific to the Cedarlite product.   As to your specific questions: - You cut the tiles with a diamond blade that can be used on a standard hand-held power saw. Wear a mask and goggles to protect from cut dust and clean the dust off of the tiles at the end of each day. - You may paint the edges of the cut tiles, but it is not necessary as they will eventually match the rest of the roof as the surface sealer wears away. -Unlike fiber-cement products like Firefree, concrete tiles never become too brittle to install. -While there are a number of good underlayments available, if you are intending to fasten the tiles directly to the roof deck, I would opt for the two-ply asphalt based product rather than the Tri-flex.   Q: What would you recommend to paint a 9" Atlantis tile to make it look like a white 13" slurry tile?   A: The Atlantis tile is a color-through product. Combining a 13 inch slurry coated tile with a color-through product may always appear slightly different because of this structural difference.   Having said that, a 100% acrylic paint applied to a clean surface should give you the best results.   Q: I am looking for the installation guide for the Saxony Slate.   A: The FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual, Fourth Edition, are the industry as well as MonierLifetile proprietary specifications. There are four installation systems detailed in the manual.   By clicking on the link below, you can choose to either download an electronic version (approx 200 pages) or print an order form for a hard copy:   http://www.tileroofing.org/tri.aspx?cat=homeowners&id=58   Q: I need to know if you have the old flat cement tile with dimensions 9"x12" (does not include the side flange).   A: Most likely, the 9-inch flat tile you are referring to is Bermuda Flat. That product was discontinued several years ago. Bermuda was replaced by Atlantis, which is geometrically the same as Bermuda but has a different interlocking system. The two profiles are not compatible.   For repairs it would be necessary to replace entire roof panels rather than individual tiles. Painting would be required to match colors.   Q: Does the Ubbink vent work with Spanish S Espana tiles?   A: The correct Ubbink vent to be used with our Espana tile would be the Part Number #90009.   Q: What is your UL Fire Rating?   A: Concrete roof tile is considered a Class A fire rated product by all local code jurisdictions.   MonierLifetile and most other concrete roof tile manufacturers use ASTM E 108, a fire brand test in lieu of UL.   Q: I have a Monierlifetile roof and I need to paint some of the tiles. Sherwin Williams is recommending H&C Silicone Acrylic Concrete Sealer. It is xylene based and I need to know whether it will be compatible with the finish on your tiles.   A: Xylene based sealers have been used in the past as a coating for concrete roof tile. The material must be handled with care. It would be better to use a less toxic, 100% acrylic based sealer with a slight tint for color blending.   Attached is our maintenance brochure, which is also posted on our website.   Q: I want to install the Espana tile over 3X4 perlins (no plywood or paper) on an outdoor loggia. If we space the perlins to the nailing of the tiles, is there anything else we need to do? The structural engineer and the County have approved this application. We understand that we will get some leaking, and that is OK. The owner wants the old world look of seeing the bottom of the tiles.   A: Many people choose to use our tiles in a decorative mode and we have no problem with that as long as the performance limitation is recognized as you apparently have.   Q: We are doing a tile roof in Fort Lauderdale. What are the dry-in requirements?   A: The minimum dry-in in Miami-Dade and Broward Counties is a No. 30 organic felt. There are upgrades that are permissible.   The standard underlayment system used in those counties is a 30/90 hot mop system. Also used is a No. 30 dry-in with a self-adhered membrane as a cap sheet.   Q: I need a manufacturer's spec sheet on your Espana tile with the minimum roof pitch.   A: The minimum roof slope for concrete roof tile depends on the installation system used by the roofing contractor. (See the 5 pages attached from the FRSA/TRI Concrete and Clay Roof Tile Installation Manual, Fourth Edition, which is our industry standard.)   When doing a 2:12 to 4:12 slope, a multi-ply underlayment is required.   Roof slopes 2:12 to 3:12 must use an adhesive tile fastening system (no penetrations).   Q: Can you please what the difference is between your sealed and unsealed tiles. We want a maintenance free roof that doesn't need painting any more.   A: Sealing a concrete roof tile is done to assist in the curing of the concrete. It is not associated with the long term performance of the tile. An unsealed tile will allow the chemicals in the concrete to combine with the moisture in the air and form a light white film on the tile surface. Tiles that are intended to be natural, earthy in appearance are generally unsealed. This includes most of our products made in the Boca Raton facility.   No exterior product exposed to the Florida climate is totally maintenance free. Algae growth in spore rich areas will eventually require some cleaning. Attached is our maintenance brochure which can also be downloaded from our website at http://www.monierlifetile.com/technicaltools/pdf/MaintenanceBrochurefor2006.pdf.   Q: I have re-roofed my home with your Atlantis tile and in the next days will have my final inspection. What should I look for, as a homeowner, to check the quality of workmanship of my roofing contractor? The roof has passed the county's wind strength requirements but I am uncertain as to the level of workmanship that I should expect. For example, should the tiles be in a perfect straight line?   A: Aesthetic issues should be discussed with your roofing contractor. Please keep in mind that roof tile is not bathroom tile. It is a dimensional roof covering that is intended to be a natural blend of small, individual components. Some trust in the roofing contractor is required, because you cannot see under the tile once it is finished. This is the reason that the State of Florida requires that only licensed roofing contractors be allowed to work in the state.   Q: We have a Tudor style home and have ordered Cedarlite tile. The roofer is not planning to use battens in the installation. Is it optional or do you recommend battens in the installation? What is the advantage or purpose of battens?   A: All of our tiles, including Cedarlite may be installed on battens or fastened directly to the roof deck. The Cedarlite and Madera tiles are unique in that they do not feature a projecting anchor lug by which most of our other tiles would normally attach to the battens.   While nailing the tile directly to the roof deck is fine and would perform just as well as a tile nailed directly to a batten, you may want to consider the option of installing the tile to an elevated batten system.   By installing a counter batten or elevated batten system, you effectively raise the tile and the batten above the roof deck. This method does two things that can have a dramatic effect on the performance of the roof. Firstly, it provides for better drainage should water get beneath the tile. Secondly, and judging by your Phoenix address - more importantly, the increased air flow created by this system has been proven to be a very effective method of ventilation between the tile and the roof deck. This airspace has been shown to be effective in reducing the amount of heat that can enter through the roof and into the structure, thereby reducing the amount of energy needed to cool the house during hot weather. Data to determine the amount of savings is being developed at this time and is being considered as a possible part of the 2008 California Energy Code.   Q: I have a 26-year-old tile roof. Lately, there's been a leak in the valley portion of the roof and was told that the underlayment should be replaced. What underlayment is presently recommended?   A: The valley detail can be repaired by removing the tiles in the general area of the junction and repairing the area with an SBS modified bitumen self-adhered membrane. There is also some metal lining in the valley that probably should be replaced.   Not knowing the type of installation is a handicap in developing a detailed course of action. Salvaging the cut pieces would make the job much easier, obviously. Salvaging the field tiles around the area is also important, because replacement tiles are not readily available. Usually in repair cases such as this, tiles will be broken in the process (usually 25%).   Q: Can tile manufactured in Florida or Texas be used in our northern climate in Minnesota?   A: The MonierLifetile color-through tiles pass freeze/thaw testing for code purposes and can be used in all climates. We do not recommend slurry coated tiles in northern climates, however. Also, we do not recommend installation of the Spanish S profile manufactured at our Boca Raton facility in northern climates.   Q: Does your warranty require the installer to use your MTL TileSeal? And, how long can the roofer allow underlayments to remain exposed before installing tiles? Does this affect warranty?   A: 1) MLT does not require the installation of MLT TileSeal as a condition in supporting our product warranty.   2) The MLT TileSeal can be exposed for 6 months. The warranty does not apply to MLT TileSeal, as mentioned. If an underlayment is exposed longer than the recommended time, it should be examined by the manufacturer or one of their representatives.   Q: Can you recommend a brand of paint to cover faded roof tiles?   A: After cleaning the tiles, you can use a 100% acrylic paint. Infiniti is one brand that we can recommend. See attached.   Q: We are currently working on a project in Florida where we specified the type 'S' Spanish tile on decorative roofs. What kind of vent opening product can be used with this system?   A: The Ubbink vent, distributed by MonierLifetile, is a profile specific vent that can be painted to match the tiles. Linked here is a description and installation instructions of the Ubbink vent.   Q: Are battens used with Monierlifetile Madera?   A: Madera tile, like all tiles, may indeed be installed on battens and as a matter of good practice, we recommend that they be installed on our 1"x3" Elevated Batten System that was originally developed specifically for this product line.   Q: Can you verify that MonierLifetile Slate, Silver Grey color, manufactured at your Tacoma, WA plant, meets the requirements for LEED credits for recycled content, heat island effect?   A: Attached information will answer LEED requirements questions:    - GreenBuild LEED Credits    - GreebBuild Press Release   Q: The roofer left extraneous mortar (foot prints, splashes, etc.) on my roof. How do I remove the extraneous mortar from the surface of the concrete tile installed on my roof?   A: Hydrated mortar on a concrete tile surface can be difficult to remove. We are experimenting with a product called Acid Magic. It is an acid alternative that appears to be safe and effective. We have some sample bottles in our Lake Wales facility that your roofer might try. A 10% solution of muriatic acid is also an alternative. In some cases, the method of removing the mortar from the surface may compromise the factory sealer coat. If this happens, a coat of sealer, jobsite applied, would be required to block efflorescence from migrating to the tile surface.   Q: Do you have installation instructions on how to create a turret with Espana tile?   A: Interlocking roof tiles are not ideally suited for installation of turrets but there are ways to do it if enough time and preparation are applied. There is no precise formula for turret application but the attached document should give you a basic idea on how to proceed. As far as material usage, you will definitely need more tile since the coverage of each tile will be diminished by the increased sidelaps and cut work. You should anticipate that you will need 2-3 times the amount of tile that would normally be required for this size roof area.   Q: I want the staggered roofing placement of my tiles. Can I have this done with Monierlife Madera?   A: The Madera tiles are not designed to be applied in a staggered fashion but we have received numerous reports of this being done and have noted that it results in a very unique look. The one precaution that we provide to roofers who elect to install the Madera or Cedarlite tiles in this manner is the fact that there is a small water stop at the top of the underlock of the tile that should be removed on the lapped tile to prevent this stop from lifting the adjacent tile and presenting a point load and potential water intrusion problem.   Staggered tile courses are usually only considered for steep slope roofs since the effect is not as noticeable at lower roof slopes and most people do not wish to spend the extra money that this application requires if they are not going to be able to see the effect. The aforementioned precaution becomes less critical as the roof slope increases since foot traffic that could create point load is less likely on roofs that are too steep for walking. Likewise, water intrusion is less likely on steep slopes since water exits the roof so quickly that it typically doesn't have much of a chance to be diverted sideways.   If you do want to pursue this application you should know that it will require that you order more tile (approximately 5-10% more per inch of stagger) and will weigh slightly more (again- 5-10% per inch of stagger).   Q: My company is currently in the initial construction stage for two seven story condominium projects. The buildings were both designed with tile roofs but some of the purchasers are suggesting that standing seam metal is a better material in the event of a hurricane. Could you provide any information to back up the use of tile?   A: Metal roofs did perform well during recent hurricanes. When failure did occur, entire sections were affected (came loose or blew off). Roof tile also did well when installed correctly. Impact damage (flying debris) to metal roof coverings results in dents. Impact damage to tile roofs results in limited breakage that can be repaired. Aesthetically, there is general agreement that tile roofs are the roof covering of choice by most owners and builders.   Q: I am interested in your rubberized coating material that is approved for use in potable water situations.   A: There are a lot of "rubberized" elastomeric coatings on the market but most of them are used on low-slope roofing. Many of them are at the forefront of the Cool Roofing movement since they are usually white and reflect heat quite well. I have not heard of it being used in the manner that you have asked but it would likely be possible, although I would not recommend it since it would convert the tile roof into a monolithic assembly that would not breathe well and could create other problems not related to the water catchment intention. In Hawaii and other remote locations, tile roofs are commonly used for water catchment and tile roofs lend themselves well to this purpose since they are made from natural materials and do not release any harmful elements. In such systems, there are specific guidelines for filtration and storage. In short, if you want to catch and save water coming off the tile roof, you may do this without the employment of a special coating.   Q: I had the Monier Duralite roofing tile installed about 12 years ago. The grey colored tile has slowly lost its glaze through the years and now has a greyish brown dirty appearance. When installed, I was advised this tile has a 50 year warranty. Having such a long warranty, why is the tile so discolored and have such a dirty appearance?   A: Our product warranty applies only to the physical properties of the roof tile and not to the appearance. Different climate conditions can affect the tiles differently so the dirty appearance could easily be the result of dirt accumulation on the roof or even moss or algae that forms on the roof in many climates. The shine that may have been on your tile when they were first purchased was not a "glaze" but rather a temporary surface sealer that is applied to the tile during the manufacturing process to prevent efflorescence from forming on the tiles. This risk of efflorescence only affects the tiles for the first few years so the sealer is designed to gradually wear away to leave a more natural matte appearance.   Q: I would like more technical information on your MLT Tile Seal Underlayment and need to know where I can get the application specs. Is this product approved in Broward County? Is this product better than hot mopping a 90 lb. felt over the tin tab applied felt? Should the edges be sealed with black mastic for better application?   A: Northern Elastomeric Inc. (NEI) TileSeal is packaged as MLT TileSeal. The product has a Notice of Acceptance (NOA) No. 03-0716.01 for use in Miami-Dade and Broward Counties. Installation instructions are also available on NEI's website: http://www.nei-act.com/.   The material would be considered an upgrade to a No. 90 (30/90 hot mop) cap sheet. The side laps (not the head laps) of the material can be sealed with a compatible adhesive. This is true of all SBS modified underlayments. A side lap seal is not required in the TileSeal installation instructions.   Q: What can be done about bats getting under the curved tiles at the edge of the roof?   A: Any opening in the roof can provide an opportunity for bird or animal nesting. For problem intrusions such as this, I would start by contacting an exterminating or pest control company since they undoubtedly would have some experience with such things. The method used for closing off the openings would depend largely on the desired aesthetics. Many openings on tile roofs are closed with mortar or polyurethane foam although wood trim may also provide an effective barrier as well.   Q: How do you install nailer board used to attach the hip and ridge trim tiles? Do you wrap with a weather protection or a tile guard or put mortar without the tile guard?   A: If mortar is being used as weather blocking, the wood must be protected from the mortar by installing a moisture barrier between the mortar and the wood. This is typically accomplished by inserting a layer of roofing underlayment over the wood prior to the mortar application.   Q: We have a Monier tile roof on our home in Hawaii, installed in 1974. We'd like to change the color, so is there a paint or coating you recommend?   A: There are a number of companies that specialize in recoating old tile roofs and most of them use high grade acrylic coatings that are very durable and are even available in new "cool roof" colors that effectively reduce the amount of heat that enters through the roof. Regardless of which product is used, proper and thorough surface preparation is required for this process to be effective long term. Most of the companies offer warranties. Here is a list of some websites that you can check for local contractors.   http://www.americanrooftilecoatings.com/ http://www.uni-glaze.com/ http://www.custom-coatings.com/   Q: I would like more technical information on your MLT Tile Seal Underlayment and where I can get more information and application specs. Is this product approved in Broward county? Is this product better than hot mopping a 90 lb. felt over the tin tab applied felt and should the edges be sealed with black mastic for better application?   A: Northern Elastomeric Inc. (NEI) TileSeal is packaged as MLT TileSeal. The product has a Notice of Acceptance (NOA) No. 03-0716.01 for use in Miami-Dade and Broward Counties. Installation instructions are also available on NEI's website: http://www.nei-act.com/. The material would be considered an upgrade to a No. 90 (30/90 hot mop) cap sheet. The side laps (not the head laps) of the material can be sealed with a compatible adhesive. This is true of all SBS modified underlayments. A side lap seal is not required in the TileSeal installation instructions.   Question: Do MonierLifetile products have an Energy Star rating?   Answer: MonierLifetile has been actively participating in the studies that are being conducted by Lawrence Berkley and Oakridge National Laboratories to determine the best ways to make roof systems more energy efficient. These studies evaluate Cool Roof performance under the auspices of the California Energy Commission.   While we have evaluated a number of our tiles to the Energy Star standard, we feel that the California Cool Roof Council (CCRC), which demands a 40% reflectivity and .75 emissivity is far more useful than the Energy Star level of 25%. Since Energy Star is currently re-evaluating their test standards, we have submitted some recent test results from Oakridge (ORNL) for their consideration as additional criteria for people interested in reducing their energy usage.   In short, the latest testing proves that tile roofs offer advantages far greater than can be achieved with just reflective coatings and emissivity ratings. In fact, the study indicates that the vented air space between the roof deck and the installed tile effectively reduces the amount of heat that enters the roof of a building by an amount that's equal to roughly 30 points of reflectivity. Clearly, this effect makes Cool Roofs far more accessible than the past reliance on special coatings and colors.   What this means to you (if you are in the process of preparing an upgrade of your current roof) is that you may maximize your results by taking whichever tile you choose (lighter colors have highest reflectivity) and install them on an elevated batten system that allows for enhanced airflow beneath the tile. Vented eave riser metals and ventilated ridge tapes are other components that factor into this new breathable roof that should maximize your energy savings from your roof.   If you want only to have a reflective roof, there are companies that specialize in spraying new, highly reflective coatings onto older tile roofs.   Question - Snow Retention? I recently had a renovation done where they installed a rubber / membrane roof on the dormer because of the low pitch. In the winter however - snow builds up with a small layer of ice next to roof. Then it slowly slides to the edge where it falls off in an avalance. My contractor said that if I used snow guards it may cause ice dams which would be worse. Is that true? What type of snow guard can I attach to a rubber roof?   Answer - Snow Retention, Prevention of Ice Dams Specific solutions to snow retention problems vary. The following is recommended for this particular case. Apparently, the roof slope is low enough to require a sealed membrane but not shallow enough to retain the snow pack. Certainly, snow retention would seem to be a viable solution but I'm unsure why your contractor would be concerned about ice dams since these conditions are not necessarily related.   Typically, ice dams are created when there is heat loss from within the structure that is sufficient to melt the standing snow which in turn, runs down the roof until is hits the overhang of the roof that is usually much colder which causes the snow melt to then freeze and gradually build up into an ice dam. This can be exhibited most commonly by the icicles that hang from your roof eaves.   From your description, it is not clear to me if you, in fact, do have the conditions that would result in ice damming but you certainly seem to have a situation that leads to avalanching that can be destructive and dangerous. I am not familiar with any snow retention devices that are designed to be installed on stand-alone sealed systems since all we deal with are concrete roof tiles.   In any case, I cannot see where snow retention would result in ice damming. The thin layer of ice that forms between the snow and the roofing material is quite common and in many cases will form a bond between the roof and snow pack. Unfortunately, when the first warm weather comes, this bond can break and result in the sliding that you have experienced. While I'm not certain that he will have a solution, I would advise you to visit the following website: http://www.trasnowbrackets.com/. Perhaps if you could provide him with photos of your roof, he could suggest a solution.   I need to find out what the maximum slope is for tile installation on a roof.   Tiles may be installed on any roof slope but, on slopes exceeding 24:12(200%), the nose ends of all tiles must be securely fastened. This is typically accomplished with special clips and/or adhesives.   Have any of your roofing products been tested to UL 2218. I noticed you provide a warranty, just wondering if you use the UL test?   The UL 2218 is a convenient standard that basically consists of the dropping of steel balls onto roofing materials to compare impact resistance. While this is a fairly simple test, the tile roof industry did not feel that it effectively portrayed hail stone impact. For that reason we chose a more appropriate test (now known as FM 4473) that actually simulates hail impact by utilizing an ice ball cannon. The results of this test are what we used as basis for our hail warranty.   Can we use an existing EPDM membrane (5:12 pitch) for substrate in Minnesota?   Although EPDM is not normally installed beneath concrete tile, there is no reason that it cannot be used. It is important however, when using a sealed system, to provide adequate ventilation to avoid condensation problems. The use of a counterbatten system is also important in climates with severe weather.   I installed a MonierLifetile roof on our house approximately 20 years ago. I have noticed that the surface of the tile is wearing through to the extent that I can now see the concrete in some areas. Is there a surfacing treatment that can restore the tile?   You evidently have a surface coated tile on your roof and unfortunately, the weathering process does gradually wear the color away. There are a number of products and processes that are available for the rejuvenation of weathered tiles and when properly applied may effectively bring back the original color or give you the option of choosing a new color. There are a number of companies who are beginning to offer this service in different parts of the country.   Is the Mission Barrel tile new for Florida? Any particular advantages or disadvantages to that style?   The Mission Barrel is one of the oldest product lines we have. The advantage of the two piece Mission Barrel tile is most simply the aesthetic result - high profile, old world charm. The disadvantages would be in the higher product and installation cost and the shrinking number of artisans to install this more labor intensive product. The one piece tiles (such as the Espana, Vanguard Roll, Villa, etc.) are more widely used now for those reasons.   I am interested in wind ratings for tile roofs vs composition or other type roofs. I note there are relative strength ratings for hail. Is there any data for impact from golf balls?   I'm afraid we do not have data specific to golf ball impact, due to the number of variables involved. We do however have an excellent track record against hail and offer a hail warranty aginst damage up 1 1/2" hailstones. Our experience on golf courses is actually quite good as well although I would recommend keeping some spare tiles around for the occasional ball that hits "just right". Regarding the wind issue attached to your "annual hurricanes", there are special methods of attachment that have been developed specifically for your region. The type of fastening will be determined by the type of tile, application and slope of your roof. You can have your contractor contact us for further instructions once you are ready for that information.   I have 4 skylights in the upper 13 of my existing shake roof. I am considering reroofing in Duralite Shake, but am concerned I would not be able to get onto the roof to clean the skylights. If I be very careful, is this ok Would it void the warranty?   With proper instruction and care, you may be able to traverse your roof without breaking tile but there is certainly a greater risk of breakage with lightweight tile than there would be with standard weight products. If you must use a lightweight tile, you may consider using walk pads to distribute your when conducting maintainence tasks. Another option that has recently become available is the use of polyurethane foam beneath the tile in those areas that require frequent foot traffic. The foam expands to fill the void underneath the tile and thus provides support that will minimize the threat of breakage.   Can I use your products on a roof with pitch less than 412 I have a 40 year old house with 2X4 rafters 24"oc... what will need to be done regarding engineering reports?   Tiles may be installed below a 4:12 slope but special consideration must be made for the selection and application of the underlayment at the lower roof slopes. Also, it is recommended that a counterbatten or elevated batten system be used at lower slopes. The engineering requirements depend on the policies of your local building official. In most cases, an engineering report verifying the capabilities of the structure will be required. The size of the rafters are not as important as the type and frequency of supports and ties. Most roofs are capable of supporting our lightweight tiles without enhancement, but if standard weight tiles are used, some reinforcement may be necessary. 2"x4"'s are commonly used in the current pre-fabricated trusses that support tile roofs on new homes but when 2"x4"'s were used in roofs forty years ago, it was usually for relatively short spans or on steeper roof slopes. As a rule, 2"x4"'s on 24"o.c. should not span much more than 7 feet without support.   We are planning to install your Monier 2000, Slate, concrete roof tile on a new custom residence. Your installation instructions, pp. 13, 17, et. al., suggest that only batten systems are acceptable. This contrasts with the NRCA Roofign and Waterproofing Manual, 4th ed., page 1100, para 1.6.1.2.C, and page 1148, para 3.6, states that batten systems should be considered where the tile can be lug hung. Your tile profile drawings suggest that there is no head lug on the Monier 2000 Slate tile. Given (2) layers of 30 lb. felt underlayment, 58" thick plywood roofing sheathing, and a roof slope of 912, is a non-batten application system acceptable to a warranted Monier tile roofing system Does your Monier 2000 Slate tile have head lugs   Our Monier 2000 Slate tiles do in fact have anchor lugs and per Table 15-D-2 of the 1997 UBC must be installed on battens above a 7:12 slope. All of our products except Cedarlite have anchor lugs for batten application.   What is the maximum roof slope to which Espana or Villa can be applied. We are designing some well houses for the Calleguas Municipal Water District near Thousand Oaks. The client wishes to use a "Spanish Mission" looking tile on a "mansard roof." The planned mansard has a slope of 6 horizontal to 12 vertical fairly steep. If this is possible, which starter would you recommend Neoprene closure (by Lifetile), raised fascia, or a metal eave riser closure strip   All of our tiles may be installed up to 24:12 without special fastening considerations other than the battens and the mechanical fastening of each tile. Tile installed above a 24:12 slope must be attached to battens with provisions taken for securely fastening the nose ends of the tile (per UBC Table 15-D-2, footnote #40). This is typically accomplished with nose clips or adhesives. Most of the Espana and Villa tile installed in the Thousand Oaks area utilizes the metal eave closure strips for the support of the first course.   Need to know if my room with cathedral ceiling will support your light weight tile at 596 lbs sq.   Tiles are commonly installed over catheral ceilings and our lightweight tiles are typically considered a viable alternative if you are replacing an existing roof. The specific capability of your roof system must be determined by knowing the span of the rafters and the size and spacing of the rafters.   I wanted some info on flashing at the bottom of a valley when the roof continues down. I'm using your S type tile   The intersection of a valley onto an adjacant roof surface is typically handled with a flexible flashing extension as shown on page 27 of the MonierLifetile April 2000 installation guide. This flashing is usually fashioned from sheet lead or dead soft aluminum.   I am currently in escrow on a house that has the Monier roof tile. They are labeled El Abana and A-585, the tiles on the main roof of the house are attached to the roof joists directly, with no tar paper, or felt, or anything between them and the wood. Is this correct installation, or not recommended, or possibly not even to code.   The open spaced sheathing method of tile installation is fairly common in some parts of the world but was only practiced for a short while in this country. This method was code approved up to about twenty years ago, after which time, this type of application required that a special underlayment be put into the installation. That being said, when properly applied, this type of installation can perform very well for many years.   We live in an area where moss on roofs is prevalant. How does your roofing material hold up under wet, damp conditions and what precautions need to be taken to prevent moss build-up?   Our tiles hold up very well in the type of climate that you described but, unfortunately, we can offer no magic solution for avoiding the growth of moss on the roof. The good news is that there is no indication that moss or algae do any harm to the concrete tiles themselves. Small amounts of moss on a roof are not a problem but, left unchecked, moss will continue to grow and may eventually block and divert water flow, thus diminishing the watershedding capacity of the roof. Periodic cleaning of the roof can prevent this and the use of biocides or zinc strips may be incorporated to slow the growth of these organisms.   I am especially interested in what the UL rating is   Concrete roof tiles are one of the most hail resistant, mainstream roofing products in the world and MonierLifetile currently warrants against hail damage up to 1 1/2" hailstones. Lightweight tiles are not as resistant to hail as our standard weight products but still perform better than most materials. There are no classifications assigned to tile at this time since the insurance industry unwittingly chose to use the UL 2218 test to measure impact resistance without realizing that this test would not properly measure the performance of all products. The UL 2218 test is a very simple test that involves the dropping of steel balls of varying size from different heights. The proper test for rigid products like concrete tile is the FM 4473 which uses a ice ball launcher that more closely simulates actual hail. Our company is currently involved with a full scale test at Factory Mutual that is intended to provide the classifications that will be used by the insurance industry to promote hail-resistant roof materials. Based on previous testing, we expect that most of our standard weight tiles will garner a classification 3 or 4. It is unknown what ranking the lightweight tiles will acheive since they have not been tested at this time.   I have a Monier cement tile roof that is approximately 25 years old. The tiles have faded and lost most of their color (they were originally red) and they seem to draw a bit of water through them. As this is an old roof, there was no underlayment which, I was told, was standard practice at the time. The roof is having some small leakage problems. Is it advisable to recoat the roof tiles with paint and or sealant If so, what is recommended There is a contractor in town who is willing to charge a lot of money for this service, but I have no idea if it will do anything beneficial and whether Monier would recommend such a procedure.   There are a number of treatments that are used to rejuvenate old concrete tile roofs and most of the good ones involved a multi-step process of cleaning, priming and coating. The high-grade acrylics that are applied as the color coat will typically carry a 8-10 year warranty and can be expected to last much longer. The only contractor that I know of who has been trained and certified in Hawaii is Ron Deppe of Islandwide Roofing at 808 / 572-1265. The product and process he uses is called Roof Magic and reportedly works quite well on roofs such as yours. It will be important that you notify them of the open spaced roof sheathing. This system was a common practice some years ago, but could present a problem during the cleaning process of the roof.   My home was built in 1938. All the rafters are 2x4 construction spaced 24 inches o.c. Is your duralite product acceptable for a re-roof on this house?   Our lightweight tiles are designed as reroof options for houses that were not originally designed for standard weight tile. In most cases, no additional reinforcement is required for Duralite tiles although it is still important to consider the condition of the structure. On a house as old as yours, there are sometimes changes that have been made to the structure and these need to be identified and analyzed to certify their compliance to standards. Rafter sizes of 2"x4" on 24" centers is quite common for homes built at that time and they would be capable of supporting a tile roof if they are properly supported and attached. Current allowable, unsupported spans for 2"x4" at 24"o.c. would not exceed 7'9" for lightweight tile or 7' for standard weight. Your building official will likely want to know the rafter spans and other information prior to issuance of a roofing permit.   When installing the roof ridge tile, what is the minimum overlap between ridge tiles?   Ridge tiles must be lapped sufficiently to cover the nail holding the preceding tile. This nail hole must be sealed with roofing cement or other adhesive that will effectively seal the nail hole and provide a firm bond between the two tiles.   I recently tiled my roof with your country slate product. I was wondering if this roof qualifies for the UL 2218 classification and, thereby, an insurance reduction.   Our tiles are not tested to the UL 2218 standard since it is not a proper test for rigid products such as tile. Our tiles are tested to the FM 4473 standard which is what we base our hail warranty on. Unfortunately, TDI has not recognized alternate test standards at this time despite overwhelming evidence that concrete tiles outperform nearly all other roofing materials in actual hail storms. We are actively working to get this situation rectified and anticipate that classifications will be assigned during this year. In the meantime, we would gladly enter your name into our database for people to be notified as soon as this change occurs.   We are planning to install colonial slate tile on a dome roof with varying pitch from approx. 12:12 to 2:12. What kind of special precautions should be used to prevent wind driven rain from penetrating the system of the lower slopes?   It is difficult to totally prevent the entry of wind driven rain into low slope roofs but there are steps that may be taken to guard against leakage and roof damage. Increasing the head lap of the tiles installed at low roof slopes can be helpful in preventing water intrusion but steps must still be taken to prevent damage beneath the tiles. On slopes below 3:12, a sealed underlayment is required and a counterbatten system is required to keep the battens and tile above the roof deck to prevent damming and minimize fastener penetrations.   I need the thermal resistance "R" value for your "shake" style roof tile?   We do not publish or promote the "R" values of our tiles due to the large number of variables that may affect this figure. I can tell you that ASHRAE has published figures that put a concrete tile roof assembly at 3.41 (Heat Flow Down) and 2.95 (Heat Flow Up).   I have an open beam type of home. Roof is designed with 4"x12" rafters about 8' apart and span lengths of approximately 12'. Can this type of roof support the Duralite shake?   Since Duralite is less than 6 psf, it is generally used as a direct replacement for shingles and shakes. While 4"x12" rafters spanning only 12 feet would appear to be sufficient, you did not mention what type of decking is spanning 8 feet. You also did not mention the roof slope,or if there is a ridge board supporting the rafters. Our normal recommendation for open beam structures is to have it checked by a professional engineer when doubt exists.   I am about to start construction on a new house in St. Petersburg, FL using MontierLife Espana cement tiles and a 6:12 pitch. My builder is planning on using 7/16? OSB over a 2 x 4 engineered trust 16? on center. The Underlayment is 30 lbs. I understand that this meets code. Are the sub roof and underlayment that he is proposing sufficient to prevent sagging and leaks over time? I am concerned with OSB as a roof material and want to make sure that the roof does not delaminate or sag. How does OSB compare to Plywood? What sheathing thickness is recommended? What underlayment is recommended for a leak proof installation?   OSB is not an approved substrate for concrete roof tile in high wind regions. This is an industry position. The American Plywood Association (APA) will state, however, that the physical properties of OSB are equal to or greater than plywood. If the local building department agrees with their position, then it can be used as an alternative to plywood. Span rating (sagging) is not the issue; screw or nail pullout value is. The minimum underlayment for concrete roof tile is a No. 43 coated base sheet. The minimum sheathing thickness is 15/32 inch.   I have a 50 year monier tile roof that has developed a leak. how can i find out if it was properly installed The valleys are butted against each other. Is this proper 1 tile broke and slipped down a few inches,I caulked it and pushed the tile back together. Should it be replaced   There are any number of reasons that your roof may be leaking and having a broken tile is certainly a way for water to enter into the system. Caulking on a broken tile will usually work as a stopgap measure but this tile should be replaced as a permanent solution. Since you mentioned the closed valleys, am I to assume that the leak is occurring in that area? If this is the case, it may be necessary to clear away any debris that may have accumulated there. You did not mention which tile profile you have but if it is a flat tile, you may want to consider having the tiles cut away from the center of the valley to allow better drainage. Even though closed valleys are an accepted method of installing tiles in your area, they may become problematic if there is any debris accumulation that creates water diversion off of the valley metal. Sometimes it is sufficient to remove only those cut tiles that are creating dams or diversions in the valley. Another option, if you desire to keep the closed valleys is to use a ribbed style valley metal to replace what is probably a standard flat valley metal.   When reroofing, can your roofing tiles be placed directly over existing asphalt shingles? Do all your tiles, especially "barrel" tiles, have sufficient strength once installed that a person can walk on the roof surface without damaging the tiles?   structure is capable of supporting the weight of both roofs. All of our standard weight tiles can support occasional roof traffic if proper care is taken. Instructions for walking on tile are shown on page 47 of the MonierLifetile April 2000 installation guide.   As a rule, should fasteners penetrate the sheathing at exposed eaves on cement tile applications?   There are no specific rules regarding exposed eaves. The UBC requires only that the fastener penetrate the sheathing 3/4-inch or through the sheathing, whichever is less. Exposed fasteners at overhangs become an aesthetic issue that should be discussed with the contractor.   I have a house with an S Flat roof. The side walls slope out to about two feet in a ten foot drop. Can I use Cedarlite for this type of application which would effectively be vertical. Would the Cedarlite be too heavy?   It is not likely that weight would be of concern although you did not give me any specific information regarding the structural make-up. On vertical installations, the attachment of the tile is the most critical factor. The Uniform Building Code(UBC) requires that tiles attached to slopes exceeding 24:12 must have some sort of nose clip on each tile in addition to the standard fastening required in Table 15-D-1 of the UBC. For Cedarlite, this would mean two nails or two screws per tile in addition to a nose clip.   I am looking to get a City of Los Angeles Research Report Number (RR#) for your roof tile.   Our LA RR # is 23700 and should be on file at all city building departments.   I am an Owner Builder. I am using the Monier Villa tiles. I would like information about proper instation around a skylight.   The type of installation depends on the type of skylight you're using but for the sake of this conversation, I will assume you are using a standard curb- mounted skylight. Firstly, the curb-mount should be a minimum 2"x6" but could be higher if you are using a counterbatten system or step flashing. Next, the underlayment should turn up at the curb on all four sides with the corners sealed to water proof the cut underlayment. If standard tile pan flashing is to be used, it should be installed at this point. The flashing around the skylight should form a clear path for water to be directed around and away from the skylight and back onto the tile at the downslope edge. If step flashing is used, each course should be fitted with lead or other maleable metal that fits under the skylight or counterflashing and then onto the tile to form a water tight fit.   I just had my roof installed with Monier Villa tile and I noticed that there is no concrete binding between the ridge of the roof (Do I make sense?) /\ <no bonding> / \ / \ is it normal installation procedure for Northern California?   While it is not required that an actual bond be created at the ridge of the roof, as of January 1,2002, it is required that some form of weatherblocking be installed at these terminations. The roofer has the option of a number of different types of closure, including mortar, mastic, lead, pressure-sensitive adhesive or preformed plastic or metal designed specifically for this purpose.   Are any of your products applicable to a geodesic dome?   In simple terms - no. It is not necesarily impossible but I have not heard of anyone who has attempted it.It would certainly be very difficult and labor intensive due to the amount of cutwork, section transitions and attachment methods, particularly on the steep sections. If you decide to try, please let us know how it works out.   I am a contractor building my own home, the roof, floors and walls are going to be poured in place concrete. I would like to know the attachment for your shingles given this type of construction.   There are a number of methods for attaching concrete tiles to concrete decks although this is fairly uncommon in this country. In Central and South America it is common to set the tiles directly onto the deck in a bed of mortar. Recently, two part polyurethane foam systems have been developed in place of the mortar for attachment. In this country, it is more common to mechanically attach the tiles over a layer of underlayment, most commonly an asphalt based product. The attachment of the tile is typically onto a raised batten system as depicted on page 64 (MC-26) of the Roof Tile Institute Installation Manual.   I am going to have to re-roof my home in SunValley, Idaho. It is cedar and I am considering using your CedarLite. The roofers I have talked with all tell me that they do not recommend this type of product due to the severe freezing/thawing in this area. I have been told by your reps as well as by a distributor in Boise (where the weather is much less severe) that it would be OK. Unfortunately there are no installations of MonierLifeTile in this area (at least none that I have been able to find out about). Also, in looking at the info on your web site, it appears that proper installation in this type of climate is paramount. I suspect that the roofers in town may lack the specific knowledge required. I would appreciate your knowledge regarding whether or not the product would be appropriate and secondly, if appropriate, how might I be assured of proper installation? I don't know if roofers would come from Boise for example or if a local roofer could be given information about proper installation to allow him to do a proper job.   In alpine regions subject to heavy snow accumulations, it is very important that tile roofs be installed in such a manner that ice damming and snow movement be kept to a minimum to avoid damage to the roof system and the tiles themselves. Proper ventilation and snow retention will typically prevent this type of damage but there is always the potential for extreme conditions to overcome even the best system designs. Our standard weight tiles typically perform very well in these climates, even in less than perfect situations. Lightweight tiles such as Cedarlite have performed well when the system is meticulously designed and installed but may be more susceptible to damage if the system does not match the requirements. Since the design criteria for roof loads is so great in most alpine regions, the need for lightweight tiles is not usually an issue so we would normally recommend the use of one of our standard weight products.   Can the Mission S tiles be install using a wire tie system in lieu of battens?   Our tiles may be installed using a wire tie system only if the system has specific code approval for use with our tile and provides evidence that it will perform equal to mechanically attached systems. Our company has performed both seisimic and high wind testing for mechanical systems but not for wire tie systems.   How much bleach should be used per gallon of water to kill the moss, mildew and algae? Is full strength bleach harmful to the roof tiles? How does one determine whether sealing of the tile is needed? What brands of 100% clear acrylic sealers are recommended?   Full strength bleach may harm the underlayment (felt under tile). A diluted solution with agitation (water pressure) is preferable. A 10% to 15% solution of bleach to water, in addition to moderate water pressure (1200 psi) will, in most cases, clean the tile surface in the short term. The dynamics of organic growth on the tile surface will return, however, assuming conditions remain favorable. The primary purpose of the sealer is to prevent efflorescence showing on the tile surface during the curing phase of the concrete. Any additional sealer coats applied as a maintenance procedure would offer a temporary brightening of the color. For this procedure in Florida we use a 100% acrylic tile sealant, ATS-13, made by Infiniti Paints. For product description and application data, contact them directly at 954-972-2225 (phone) or 954-972-2228 (fax).   I need to put about 2 square of roof tile down on a new addition to my house and I going to use the same style of roof tile that's on the existing roof which I pulled off and on the back it said monier monray. I was wondering if you could help me get some specs. on it, like how far apart do I need to set the battings(wood) and how to install the remainder of the tile.   The tiles that we currently produce should be very similar to the tiles that are on your roof although you will have to identify the color and style to get as close a match as possible. I would suggest that you take a tile to your local roofing supply house for identification before ordering. The batten layout should not be less than 13 1/2-inches apart. Your supplier should be able to supply you with other installation information or at least get you in touch with our nearest representative.   I have a 17 year old house with asphalt shingles. Can I leave the shingles in place and install your tiles over this surface. Some of the shingles are curled. Would this affect drainage. Do I have to do a big stuctural analysis of the rafter support sytem - 2by4 on 24inch centers.   It is possible to install our tiles over exisiting asphalt shingles if the structure is shown to be capable of supporting the combined weight. Based on the information you provided, I would guess that you have a pre-fabricated roof truss system. Depending on the design, you may be able to reroof without reinforcement but you should have this verified by an engineer or truss manufacturer before beginning. Whether the existing shingle will serve as a proper underlayment depends on the con dition. If the shingles are curled, there is a good chance that the shingles are brittle and will likely experience quite a bit of damage during the process of reroofing. It is generally advisable to install a new underlayment prior to the installation of the tile. Since you live in a hot climate, you may also want to consider optimizing your results by installing the tile on a counter batten or elevated batten system that will increase the airflow beneath the tile which will help keep your attic cooler. Other enhancements such as ventilation and radiant barriers may be considered if you want to have a measurable impact on controlling the heat gain into your home.   We are a Florida-based company that is building a custom home outside of Chattanooga, TN. We are using Sanctuary Lifetile and had specified in our specs that the roof was to be pointed up with color-matched oxide. The roofer in TN is not doing this, for a variety of reasons, but the only one that we can't dismiss without researching is his claim that in that climate, pointing up will trap moisture due to freezing and thawing. Is this correct? Do you recommend pointing up in a temperate climate?   The practice of bedding and pointing the hip and ridge trim is common only in the hurricane regions of the USA. This method is helpful in reducing the risk of wind danage and preventing water infiltration. I am not familiar with the weather patterns of Chattanooga but I can tell you that bedding and pointing may require maintenance and repair in areas subject to repeated exposure to freeze-thaw cycles. There are other methods of weatherblocking that are commonly used in these areas that perform quite well if they are properly installed.   Do you make a curved turret piece for Espana?   We do not produce a curved tile for turret sections although our Espana tile lends itself fairly well to that application since it may be progressively overlapped to minimize the amount of cutwork that this application requires.   We built a custom home in 1988 with Monier tile roofing. The tile are a reddish-brown, slurry-coated profile tile. The color coating has eroded of portions of most of the tiles. Does the warranty cover the replacement or repair of these tiles? Does the lack of the color coat affect the life expectancy of the roof? Do you have a paint color mixing formula to match these tiles?   The loss of color is not a warranted issue since our warranty covers all of the physical properties requirements but specifically excludes color. Fortunately, the strength and performance of the tiles are unaffected by this color loss and there are a number of companies that specialize in the rejuvenation of old tiles.   Our client is interested in the Monier Atlantis tile, and we would appreciate information on wastage for the general roof tile and the barrel tile. Please also advise on any clips etc required for the installation.   It is advisable to allow 10-12% for waste. Multiply trim lineal foot requirements by 0.8 for trim piece count. There are no clips for the Atlantis profile. Screws or polyurethane adhesive (foam) are recommended to meet uplift requirements.   I need a tile cutter to cut the cement flat tiles with a punch hole.   While there are tile cutters that are used in some countries, they are not commonly used, nor are they commercially available, in the US market. Attempts to market cutters in the USA have not been successful due to the fact that most roofers prefer to use circular saws fitted with diamond blades. I would suggest that you may find it easier to purchase a dry-cut diamond blade that may be used on any circular saw and then use a masonry bit to drill holes where necessary for attachment.   I'm considering your shake-look products and I've heard some conflicting information regarding the need to install "edge wrap" pieces (tile parts that wrap over the main roof tiles down over the facia on the left and right ends of the roof - if you can understand my description). Is it required that these pieces be installed in order to have a valid warrantee, or can your shake-like product be installed like real shake (which of course is not available in 90 degree bent pieces for end wraps)?   It is not an uncommon practice to install the flat tiles without the standard rake (90 degree) trim pieces at the side edges of the roof. Other options that may be used at the rake edge is to install metal rake trim or metal rake flashing or to fill the void beneath the tiles with mortar or other durable material to prevent birds or other vermin from entering.   My project is new construction in Texas. I would like to know if there is an alternative to a rake tile on a gable end condition.   There are alternatives to gable trim. One is the installation of a metal rake trim treatment.   Do you have an approved installation for Spanish S tiles on a 5/12 slope at 40' +/- above grade in a 130 MPH wind zone?   The required uplift at a 40 ft. mean roof height, 130 mph wind zone, coastal exposure, is 35.1 ft-lbs. Two (2) screws, direct deck installation, provides 51.3 ft-lbs resistance which complies with the code. Polyurethane adhesive (66.5 ft-lbs) also complies with code guidelines.   We have a large area in our kitchen family room that a tile roofing company has said would be at risk if we used Cedar or Dura Lite roofing tiles due to the extra weight of the tiles and roof assembly. At risk meaning we have a chance of the roof sagging over time and since we life in Northern California the chance of the roof suffering damage during an earthquake is greater. This does concern me because we have a neighbor who roof is sagging after tiles were put on. Please give me your opinion. The area is a 20 foot span from a support beam to a support wall. The roof pitch is 6/12. The joist are 2x8's and are 16" apart. The existing roof is wood shake.   You did not state whether your roof system was a cathedral ceiling where the rafters are also carrying a ceiling load or was conventional construction with an attic space separating the ceiling joists from the roof rafters. If your roof rafters are indeed 2"x8" at 16"o.c. that span 20 feet, then I would imagine that you probably already have some sagging since this would be overstressed even for a wood shake or shingle. The irregular appearance of wood shakes will sometimes hide the sags and bumps of a roof assembly whereas the straight lines of a tile will typically expose them. Depending on when the house was built and the grade of lumber used, the maximum span for that rafter configuration, based on 1997 values of No. 2 grade lumber, would be roughly 18'4" for our lightweight tile, 17'5" for our standard weight tile and 18'8" for a wood shake. Overspanned rafters may be strengthened by adding purlin support if proper support points are available or by doubling the rafters where no support points are available. There may be other issues to consider if reinforcement is required and we would recommend that you have an experienced engineer advise you as to the most appropriate course of action and feasibility.   We have a buff colored Lifetile roof on our home in Santa Barbara, CA. We spec'd the tile when we built the home in 1992. The tile is developing a discoloration that appears to be mildew growth. I have read your bulletin on your web site re mildew growth, but it does not offer instruction on removal.   There are a number of variables that affect the procedure so it is very difficult to come up with a "one size fits all" solution. Rather than wait for a formal document, I wanted to at least respond to tell you something about the process. The most common method for cleaning moss and algae from the roof is to soak the roof in a diluted solution of bleach and then powerwash to remove the debris. Typically, a 10 to 15% solution of bleach (5%,if pool chlorine is used)is sprayed onto the roof in an amount that soaks in rather than runs off the roof. After it drys, the roof may then be powerwashed to remove the debris. To slow the reoccurance of the problem, the roof may be sealed with a high grade acrylic tile sealant that optimally has 33% solids with a wetting agent(ATS-13 by Infiniti Paints is a common brand used in Florida). This sealant should be applied to a thichness of 1 mil for normal wear.   I roofed our house with Monier tile. It retains a great amount of heat in the summer. I wondered if there was a coating I should spray on it to reflect the light, plus give it a shinier appearance.   You did not mention what style of tile or method of application you chose, but it is unusual to hear that you are experiencing heat gain from your tile roof. Tile roofs are generally recognized as the coolest roofing assembly available for steep sloped roofing although much of their efficiency depends upon how they are installed. In hot climates, tile roof systems designed for heat reduction will typically consist of light colored tiles installed on a well ventilated counter batten system. Since you live in an area where this aspect was probably not considered, your interest in coating may be your most viable option at this time. There is quite a lot of research being conducted on energy efficient coatings but much of it is intended to be applied during the manufacture of the tile. There is a company called American Rooftile Coatings that specializes in recoating concrete tile roofs and the president, Mr. Joe Reilly, is active on the California Cool Roof Counsel. I would suggest that you contact Joe to see what counsel he might offer regarding your situation. His number is 714/680-6436.   Do you have a UL design number for Monierlifetile for a two hour roof/ceiling assembly? The roof frame is steel (W12X22) with sprayed on fireproofing.   MonierLifetile does not have a UL design number for one or two hour fire ratings. All of our tiles are rated as Class A assemblies based on tests conducted in accordance with UBC Standard 15-2 which is essentially identical to UL 790, ASTM E-108 and NFPA No. 256. These tests are conducted under worst-case scenarios utilizing tiles installed onto wood decks of plywood or OSB so it would be logical to assume that they would meet the requirements of your project.   Can I install a tile roof over a 4 year old shingle roof as the underlayment? It is a truss roof with 1 x 12 deck boards.   The issue of tile installed over asphalt shingles has been raised many times over the years. There is no test data available for this specific situation that we know of, and there probably won?t be because of the varied circumstances. It is reasonable, however, to consider asphalt shingles in good condition as an upgrade to a Type 43 underlayment for a batten installation. The following conditions must also be considered: ? Trusses must meet the requirements for the additional weight. ? Deck must be free of dry rot and the shingles must be less than five (5) years old. ? Local codes. Tile over shingles conforming to the above criteria and done according to the published specifications for a batten application should provide a long-lasting installation. The issue of tile installed over asphalt shingles has been raised many times over the years. There is no test data available for this specific situation that we know of, and there probably won?t be because of the varied circumstances. It is reasonable, however, to consider asphalt shingles in good condition as an upgrade to a Type 43 underlayment for a batten installation. The following conditions must also be considered: ? Trusses must meet the requirements for the additional weight. ? Deck must be free of dry rot and the shingles must be less than five (5) years old. ? Local codes. Tile over shingles conforming to the above criteria and done according to the published specifications for a batten application should provide a long-lasting installation. The issue of tile installed over asphalt shingles has been raised many times over the years. There is no test data available for this specific situation that we know of, and there probably won?t be because of the varied circumstances. It is reasonable, however, to consider asphalt shingles in good condition as an upgrade to a Type 43 underlayment for a batten installation. The following conditions must also be considered: ? Trusses must meet the requirements for the additional weight. ? Deck must be free of dry rot and the shingles must be less than five (5) years old. ? Local codes. Tile over shingles conforming to the above criteria and done according to the published specifications for a batten application should provide a long-lasting installation. The issue of tile installed over asphalt shingles has been raised many times over the years. There is no test data available for this specific situation that we know of, and there probably won?t be because of the varied circumstances. It is reasonable, however, to consider asphalt shingles in good condition as an upgrade to a Type 43 underlayment for a batten installation. The following conditions must also be considered: ? Trusses must meet the requirements for the additional weight. ? Deck must be free of dry rot and the shingles must be less than five (5) years old. ? Local codes. Tile over shingles conforming to the above criteria and done according to the published specifications for a batten application should provide a long-lasting installation.   The tile on our roof rattles and makes noise when windy; is there any remedy for this?   If you have tiles that chatter in high winds, you may want to consider applying a small dab of adhesive between the tiles at the overlap. It is unlikely that all of the tiles on the roof are uniformly affected so you may want to try to identify which tiles are chattering and then treat them accordingly. You did not include information regarding the slope and design of your roof or which style of tile you have but those issues may have an impact on your solution as well.   I would like find out your recommended roof pitch or slope for tile roofing.   Our tiles may be installed on slopes ranging from 2.5:12 to over 24:12 although there are different requirements for application of underlayments and fasteners depending on which slope is chosen. The most common range for tile roofs in your area is between 4:12 and 9:12.   I have your roof tile on my home and am in the process of installing a propane unit heater in my shop. What is the best way to run my 5" b vent pipe through the tile?   Any vent pipes through the roof require two flashings to be installed, one worked in shingle fashion with the underlayment and the other with the tile. The flashings should be properly lapped and sealed to prevent water intrusion and the the tiles may be temporarily removed and cut accordingly to allow for the pipe.   How does MonierLifetile compare versus slate tile roofing?   Slate and concrete tile are similar in that they are both long-lasting, fireproof, rot and hail resisting roofing products that add significant value to the structures that are applied to. Both products are heavy with concrete tiles ranging from 6-11 pounds per square foot and slates ranging from 10 to 16 psf depending on type and application. Slate roofs are a double lapped product which means that the exposed length is less than half the actual length of the slate due to the full over lap of each piece. Concrete tiles have a vertical interlock that allows them to be installed with only a three inch overlap. There are quite a few other differences in how the products are installed and flashed but probably the biggest difference is in the price of the products. Most slate will cost approximately 3-10 times as much as concrete tile. Concrete tiles can be made with textures and colors that simulate slate so it is not surprizing that most folks looking for that appearance will select concrete tile.   Several years ago, the contractor who built my custom home installed Monier Mission-S tiles without closing a gap at the eave with a birdstop, etc. I would like to plug these gaps to improve fire survival. Is there a way t do this myself without removing the rool tiles? Can I cut some building material such as wood, foam (or some more fire-resistant alternative) to a shape and glue/nail/wedge it in? Is the old-world blob of mortar/concrete a good way? Please advise.   Any material that will keep the birds from nesting beneath the tile will help to protect from fire damage. Since I assume you are in a high risk area, I would suggest that you use a non combustible material such as metal or mortar rather than wood or foam. Mortar works quite well but it is difficult to do a good job after the tiles are installed. Metal birdstops may be the best solution since they may be glued in place if conditions are right. How practical this is will depend on how the first course of tile is currently being supported. Is the tile resting directly on the roof deck or was a board or raised fascia installed to hold up the nose of the first course? If this was done, standard birdstop may not fit properly. There may be any number of methods that will effectively close this opening, but which one meets your aesthetic demands will depend on you.   Do you have an installation spec for 130 MPH wind loading at 40' height above grade? The spec must comply with the requirements of the new Florida Building Code.   Fastening requirements are based on: Roof Slope Tile Profile Type of Installation (Batten or Direct Deck) Coastal or Inland Exposure As a general rule, however, the following methods would comply with the code: One Screw Two Ring Shank Nails Polyurethane Adhesive   My roof is less than 30 days old-spanish s charleston blend. I have severe efflorenscence. Will this go away and the roof return to the original color???   This is an unsealed product, which means it will allow efflorescence to develop on the tile surface. The color has not been compromised by this curing process. Repeated rains will gradually clear the surface over time. You can demonstrate this process yourself by wetting a section of the roof with a garden hose or observing during a rain shower. Both events will temporarily wash the white film from the surface and you will see the tile color unfiltered by the natural chemical process. When it dries, the efflorescence will return. Repeated applications of rainwater will eventually dissipate the white film.   Do you have an application of your roof tiles that has passed the Dade county certification for hurricane winds. If you have clips for high winds are they available in stainless steel? Is there a fungicide in your roof shingles. and if so how does it affect drinking water collected off of your roofs?   All MonierLifetile products have a separate product approval number for Miami-Dade and Broward Counties. These product approvals are available on request from our Customer Service department. Please call Betty at 800-282-3633. Stainless steel clips are available through a special order process that requires a minimum ordering quantity. Single family homes do not generally fall in this category. Screw(s), nails, and adhesive set do comply with the code without the use of hurricane clips. There is no significant long-term anti-fungus benefits to known tile coating products, and no attempt is made in this regard in our manufacturing process. Runoff has been used in the Bahamas in the past without any known incidents. However, some roof system components, i.e., lead, may contaminate drinking water.   We are a construction investigation firm. We just looked at a home built in 1981 with what appears to be the "Villa" style Monier tile installed. The material is installed directly over spaced sheathing without underlayment. Our installation manuals only go back to 1989. Would the installation instructions from 1981 permited direct application to space sheathing without underlayment as an alternative method?   In 1981, Monier tiles were allowed to be installed over open spaced sheathing per the provisions of ICBO ER 2093.   Monier 2000 slate - stated weight is 950lbs. per square. Does that include underlayment or is it tile only?   The published weight of all MonierLifetile products is for only the tile. Your actual design will consist of the combined dead load and live load factors. Your message does not state where in Northern California you are, but unless you are situated in the mountains where snow load must be considered, your design live load will probably be 20 psf (pounds per square foot). This factor is the same, regardless of which type of roofing material you choose. The dead load is a compilation of all of the roofing and framing components and represents the static weight that is constantly being supported. This includes the roofing material, underlayment, roof sheathing and rafter system. Unless other components such as solar panels or roof mounted mechanical apparatus are added, the dead load for a 9.5 psf roofing tile would typically be around 14 to 15 psf. To determine your combined load, an engineer would add the dead load to the live load to give you approximately 35 psf which is what he would design your structure to carry. There are other factors that may come into play, but that is basically how roof designs are figured.   I would like to see a current spec. on installing tile over a low slope concrete deck.   While there are no industry specifications for tile on a concrete deck, the following assembly has been used based on local code acceptance: Prime the deck (various concrete primers are available). Hot mop a Type 30 anchor sheet. Hot mop a Type 90 cap sheet. Mortar or adhesive set the tile based on the product instructions. The minimum slope for such an installation is 2:12.   Can your Monier Roof Tile be installed over a rigid perlite insulation composite board (with waferboard up) used as a substrate and surface for the battens to be fastened onto? This composite insulation board sits on a metal deck.   The MonierLifetile tiles may be fastened to the perlite/waferboard as long as the manufacturer of the board has evidence to support this type of application. Since the MonierLifetile installation instructions are based on convention construction designs, it is only necessary to show that your proposed construction provides support and fastening equal to that of wood sheathing attached to conventional wood framing. Because Hawaii is considered a high wind area, you may want to consider static uplift forces when determining the batten system attachment. If the substrate you've selected does not provide adequate attachment, you may want to consider attaching your vertical battens through the perlite board and into the metal decking. The horizontal battens to which the tiles are attached may then be fastened to the vertical battens. An example of this type of application is shown on page 62 of the January, 2002, RTI/WSRCA Installation Manual.   I have a open beam ceiling with 2x6 tongue and groove.I have a 1 inch sheet of insulation with shakes over that. I want to add 2 more inches of insulation over the existing. What has to be done to put your Cedarlite shakes on?   Since you have an existing shake roof, I would assume that the shakes are attached